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Taking on the Portuguese Camino for Ovarian Cancer
On April 28, 2024, Ingrid Clancy, a survivor of Ovarian Cancer, will set foot on the Portuguese Camino, spanning over 450 miles from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela in Spain.
Her mission? To raise both awareness of Ovarian Cancer and funds for research.
Ingrid explains what motivated her to take this on:
On Friday October 28th, 2022, I was told I had Ovarian Cancer. Within only a few days, the following Wednesday, I was in surgery for a radical hysterectomy, including removal of my omentum (I had never even heard of that body part!) and some lymph nodes. I was diagnosed to be at Stage 3B.
Then followed 5 months of Chemotherapy sessions. By the end of April, I was in remission, and soon put on a daily PARP-Inhibitor to reduce the likelihood of recurrence. I consider myself fortunate that scientific research only three years earlier had made this medication available, bringing the likelihood of recurrence within the next two years, down from 90% likely to 50% likely! This gives me hope. This gives me a chance to move forward with positive steps.
The Call of the Camino: A Test of Spirit
May 2024 is InternationalOvarian Cancer Awareness Month. Now to mark my 1-year milestone of being NED (No Evidence of Disease), I embark on the Portuguese Camino. This is a 450 mile walk over 30 days or so, from Lisbon, Portugal to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.
This journey is threefold: for my own health and rejuvenation, to build greater community awareness of Ovarian Cancer, and to advocate for funding ongoing research.
Know the Symptoms: It may save your Life!
It is important to highlight the need for greater awareness of this devastating disease. Early detection is key, yet no definitive test exists. The symptoms of OC are too easily dismissed, until it is too late.
Common Symptoms that are often overlooked:
• Frequent Bloating
• Back ache or Stomach pain
• Changes in Bladder or Bowel habits
• Feeling full quickly
See your Gynecologist if any of these symptoms persist for 10-14 days.
Funding Hope and Saving Lives
The funds I hope to raise will go to Powell-Drescher Ovarian Cancer Research Foundation. Powell-Drescher is led by Oncologists, Survivors and Scientists working together. The funds that you help me raise will go directly to support innovative research.
Join the Journey: Walk with Purpose
Please join me and support how you can. Any donation is much appreciated. The money will go a long way. So please donate. Wish me luck on my 450-mile journey. You can follow my blog as I walk for ovarian cancer awareness here: [link].
The most important thing however is to spread awareness. I hope that others with the disease will recognize and catch the symptoms early. Together we can spread the word to save lives.
Buen Camino! Ingrid Clancy
May 1, 2024,
After Ingrid arriving in Lisbon last night Today Ingrid and her sister Cathy Duloy spent the day touring Lisbon, Sintra and surrounding areas. They start walking the Portuguese Camino tomorrow. For pictures see http://bit.ly/IngridClancy2024 .
Lisbon, the capital of Portugal, is a vibrant city with a rich history and a captivating blend of culture, commerce, and tourism. Situated on the estuary of the Tagus (Tejo) River in western Portugal, it holds the distinction of being the westernmost capital city in continental Europe. Lisbon’s natural harbor, has played a pivotal role in its historical prominence. The city’s name has been associated with legends—from the legacy of Ulysses (Odysseus) to Phoenician colonists. Once a remote outpost, Lisbon transformed into a bustling modern metropolis after being rebuilt following the devastating earthquake of 1755. Lisbon is a city shaped by its maritime history. By the 15th century, it had established itself as a center for Portuguese exploration. Although its city center was razed by the earthquake, it was reconstructed. Lisbon’s transformation continued, earning it the title of European City of Culture in 1994. Notably, the city hosted the World’s Fair (Expo '98), which spurred significant renewal projects, including the construction of the impressive Vasco da Gama Bridge—once the longest bridge in Europe.
Sintra is a charming Portuguese town situated within the cooling hills of the Serra de Sintra. Once a summer retreat for Portuguese nobility and royalty, this UNESCO World Heritage Site captivates visitors with its wealth of opulent palaces, extravagant villas, and historic sites, all set amidst lush forests and jagged hills.
May 2, 2024
Today Ingrid and her sister Cathy Duloy started the Portuguese Camino and walked about 30 Km from Lison to Alverca. They then caught the train back to their accommodation in Lisbon which they have for two more nights. For pictures see http://bit.ly/IngridClancy2024 .
Alverca do Ribatejo, also known simply as Alverca, had a population of 31,070 as of 2011. It is situated near the Tagus River in the Lisbon metropolitan area. Alverca do Ribatejo has been deeply connected with aviation since the early 20th century, with a military air base established there in 1918.Alverca also housed the first international airport of Portugal, which was closed after the inauguration of Lisbon Airport in 1942.
May 3 2024
Today Ingrid and Cath had a shorter walk of about 10Km from Alverca Alverca do Ribatejo to Vila Franca de Xira. For pictures see http://bit.ly/IngridClancy2024 .
Vila Franca de Xira is a city Situated on both banks of the Tagus River, approximately 32 km north-east of Lisbon . As of 2021, its population was 137,659. This area has a rich history dating back to neolithic times. The town is famous for its bull-running festivals held in July and October. Bulls are raised in the salty marshlands of the Ribatejo, which is also known for breeding the Lusitano horse. Notably, Vila Franca de Xira was the stage for the eponymous Vilafrancada insurrection in May of 1823, led by Prince Miguel I of Portugal. The town also benefited from the completion of the Marechal Carmona Bridge in 1951, which was the first to cross the Tagus in the Lisbon region1. Nearby, visitors can explore the Lezíria Grande Equestrian Centre, where stylish displays of the impressive Lusitano horses take place1. Additionally, the town’s Misericórdia church features striking 18th-century azulejos (glazed tiles), and there’s a Museum of Neo-Realism.
May 4 2024
After leaving Vila Franca de Xira Ingrid and Cathy continued the walk along the Tagus river to Castanheira do Ribatejo e Cachoeiras which was formed in 2013 by the merger of the former parishes Castanheira do Ribatejo and Cachoeiras. The population in 2011 was 8,266.
Then they walked on to Vila Nova da Rainha which had a population of 973 inhabitants according to the 2021 census. The village of Vila Nova da Rainha was elevated to the status of a vila (town) on July 12, 2001. Vila Nova da Rainha has historical significance as the birthplace of Portuguese aviation, housing the first center for aviator training, the Escola Militar de Aviação, which operated there from 1915 to 19201.
They ended their approx. 20 Km walk along the Tagus river today at Azambuja which had a population of 21,814 as of 2011. It has a rich history and is known for its ancient origins. Interestingly, it was home to an auto-assembly plant operated by Ford in 1963, which later became part of General Motors (Opel) in 2000. The plant produced Opel Combo minivans until 2006 when it closed, and production shifted to a plant near Saragossa, Spain.
May 5, 2024
Ingrid and Cathy left at 8.45 am, stopped for early lunch at tiny village....Reguengo. Lovely people everywhere wishing uthem Buen Camino and trying to communicate with us. And somehow they could with each only knowing a little of each other's language, plus Ingrid and Cathy throwing in a little Spanish and French!
They through Valada parish and town, Valada, which is home to 683 inhabitants as of the 2021 census. Its history dates back to Roman times, but it was during the Arab rule that the first documents referencing its fertile lands emerged. The parish includes the villages of Porto de Muge, Reguengo, and Palhota, in addition to the main town of Valada. Known for its agriculture, Valada’s fields yield crops such as tomatoes, sunflowers, corn, wheat, melons, and grapes. The Tejo River is a prominent feature, offering a picturesque setting with a riverside beach, picnic area, and camping site. Valada boasts a historic church dating back to 1211, dedicated to Nossa Senhora da Espectação do Ó. Other notable features include the Queen Dona Amélia Bridge in Porto de Muge and the quaint fishing village of Palhota, which once housed the renowned Portuguese writer Alves Redol.
They arrived Santarem after a grueling 33.2 Km and 8+ hours of walking – exhausted. They traversed open terrain with no protection from the Sun and at one point came under heavy driving rain with strong wind. Santarém, known as the “Capital of the Gothic,” is a captivating city that harmoniously blends history, culture, and natural beauty (although they said that their accommodation seems to have missed all of those things 😊 ). In 2021, its population stood at 58,671 . Santarem boasts a wealth of architectural treasures, including medieval churches and ancient Roman ruins. Beyond its historical sites, the city offers a unique experience with its picturesque views, impressive 16th-century tiles, and the famous Eucharistic Miracle associated with the Church of St. Stephen. Perched high on a plateau, Santarem overlooks the fertile Lezíria region and the Tagus River valley, known for agriculture, cattle breeding, and bullfighting
May 6, 2024
After the tough day yesterday they did a shorter day today. 10Km from Santarem to Vale de Figueira. The sun was shining and it got HOT !!
The village of Vale de Figueira with almost 2,000 inhabitants, sits close to Santarém, the capital city of its region, Ribatejo. Known for its picturesque landscape, Vale de Figueira lies in a valley parallel to the Bela Vista plateau. It is famous for being at the mouth of the river Alviela, a tributary of the Tagus River. The region is rich in vine and cereal production, and its natural beauty attracts visitors. The meadowlands, known as Lezíria, are bathed by both rivers Tagus and Alviela. Since 2008, the Rota dos Avieiros project has been promoting tourism in villages like Vale de Figueira, creating paths along the rivers and into the woods for exploration. The village also boasts historic farms, some with ancient chariots and ornate chapels, making it a unique place in Ribatejo
Distances as of May 6th:
May 7, 2024
A medium length walk day today of 22.7 Km from Vale de Figueira to Golega. On the way we with through Azinhaga . We have now walked 130Km with 530 Km to go.
Azinhaga is a charming village nestled in the heart of the Ribatejo region in Portugal. It’s particularly famous for being the birthplace of the renowned Portuguese writer, José Saramago, who won the Nobel Prize in Literature in 1998. As you wander through the narrow cobblestone streets, you’ll be captivated by the traditional whitewashed houses adorned with colorful flower pots, creating a postcard-worthy scene at every turn. The population of Azinhaga civil parish in 2011 was 1,620
Golegã is a charming town and municipality located in the Santarém District of Portugal. Situated in the heart of the Ribatejo region, known for its fertile lands and agricultural traditions, Golegã has a rich history intertwined with equestrian culture. The population of the municipality in 2011 was 5,913. It proudly holds the title of the equestrian capital of Portugal, drawing horse enthusiasts from all over. There are hose paintings and sculptures everywhere !! The annual Feira Nacional do Cavalo (National Horse Fair) takes place here during early to mid-November, attracting top breeders and showcasing refined breeds like the Lusitano, Sorraia, Alter Real, Garrano, and Terceira. The town’s main historical sight is the Igreja Matriz da Golegã, a 16th-century church with an impressive Manueline façade.
May 8 th
We had a rest day in Golega today as Cathy has a dry cough. She got to see a doctor so hopefully that will help. I ended up spending most of the day trying to resolve phone (battery not charging) and credit card issues with Terry.
May 9 th
Walked the 32.1 Km from Golega, via Asseiceira for lunch, to Tomar today. But because my phone is failing I got a little lost along the way and probably ending up walking about 36Km !!!! Gezz, pretty exhausted and covered in sweet when I arrived !!! Looking forward to a good dinner !!
Asseiceira is a charming village located in Central Portugal, a small community with a cozy atmosphere.. The area boasts picturesque landscapes, historical sites, and architectural gems. Some notable attractions include the Aqueduto dos Pegões, the Valinhos Sanctuary, and the Castelo de Almourol. Visitors can also explore local craft shops, such as Amores Pitorescos - Loja de artesanato e produtos regionais.
Tomar, also known as Thomar (the ancient name of Tomar), is a city and a municipality in the Santarém district of Portugal. The town proper has a population of about 20,000. The municipality population in 2011 was 40,677. Tomar’s historical significance lies in its creation within the walls of the Convento de Cristo, constructed under the orders of Gualdim de Pais, the fourth Grand Master of the Knights Templar in Portugal during the late 12th century. It was the last Templar town to be commissioned for construction and played a crucial role in Portuguese overseas expansion during the 15th century under Henry the Navigator, the Grand Master of the Order of Christ (the successor organization to the Knights Templar in Portugal). The town is situated in the fertile Ribatejo region, characterized by olive, pine, and fig trees, and it serves as the capital of the Médio Tejo region
May 10 th
Sightseeing in Tomar including the amazing Tomar castle and ConventofChrist.
As a tourist destination Tomar is the best destination since leaving Lisbon. The Templar castle and church are amazing. I would very much recommend a visit here.
After a rest we then went to the the very beautiful and interesting Church Santa MariadeOlival.
Ingrid's new Samsung S24 is Dead - will to take or keep a charge. It is not even two months old. Not happy. So my Polar Steps path will no longer show all my movements. We will enter waypoints manually as we go. I have Samsung Car warranty on the phone, I guess we are about to see how good that is !! I will let you know.
At the end of the day we went back to our apartment for picnic dinner on the balcony and an early night. Big day tomorrow - planning to start before sunrise to beat the heat.
May 11 th
Walking from Tomar to Alvaiazere. Long Day 33.2 Km. My phone has failed and so not I have to enter steps manually on another device.
During the day we walked though Wild Flowers and Olive Groves, we walked through Cortia
The Alvaiázere municipality had a population of 7,287 in 2011. The fertile soils, well-irrigated valleys, and slopes covered by corn fields, vineyards, and olive trees contribute to agriculture playing a significant role in the local economy. The municipality is bordered by Ansião (to the north), Figueiró dos Vinhos (to the northeast and east), Ferreira do Zêzere (to the southeast), Ourém (to the southwest), and Pombal (to the west)1. The name “Alvaiázere” originates from the Arabic word “Al-Baiaz” (the falconer), referring to lands associated with falconry.
After arrival at Alvaiázere caught taxi back to our apartment in Tomar tonight and well taxi back here to resume tomorrow.
May 12
Walked Alvaiázere to Rabacal through many Olive Groves and Wild Flowers and passing through the towns of Ansiao and Netos. This was another long and tiring day at 32 Km.
Rabaçal, located in the Penela municipality in the Coimbra District of mainland Portugal, offers a glimpse into ancient history. The Roman Villa of Rabaçal, constructed around the middle of the 4th century AD, showcases opulence with large halls, marble-covered walls, and intricate mosaics. Centuries later, it was partially reoccupied as a cemetery. The valley surrounding Rabaçal boasts Mediterranean charm, with oaks, elm oaks, and cork oak trees dotting the landscape. The population of Rabaçal in 2011 was 153 residents.
In Rabacal we stayed at Albergue O Bonito. For dinner we had the the pilgrimsmeal. We were given a 1 litre jug of white wine! A huge soup of ham beans cabbage and vegetables. A cheese plate and bread. A main course of stewed meat, vegetables and potatoes or fish. Way too much and fish little overcooked, but Pilgrims can't be choosers :-) Desserttocome :-)
May 13
Walked Rabacal to Coimbra
Along the way we visited the Pilgrim Rest Stop At Fonte Coberta and met a shepherdess with her Goats & Sheep outside Fonte Coberta. Further on we walked through Cernache.
Arriving in Combia means that we had past the 250Km (150 Mile) mark. Yay us !!
Coimbra is a city and municipality in Portugal. The population of the municipality at the 2021 census was 140,796. Coimbra is the largest city in the district of Coimbra and the Centro Region, and it’s the fourth-largest agglomerated urban area in Portugal after Lisbon, Porto, and Braga. Its historic center, dating back to Moorish times, features well-preserved structures like the aqueduct and cryptoporticus. Additionally, Coimbra is home to the oldest academic institution in the Portuguese-speaking world, founded in 1290 and relocated from Lisbon in 1308.
May 14
Sight seeing in Coimbra, a beautiful city! And I even found another Coton de Tulear pup, a 6 year old called Olie, so much like my Misty!! Ingrid having problems with an ankle and spent time picking up her old phone from FedEx (sent by Terry) and trying to fix her new phone’s charging problem – Ahhh.
May 16
After 2 days resting and sight seeing, we left Coimbra today for Mealhada. We decided to take the day off to do administrative work on tech problems with my phone, which has not been charging for several days! (Thankfully, it is now fixed by buying a compatable wireless charger.) So we caught the train from Coimbra to the next stage, Mealhada. Tomorrow, we will head back on the train to Coimbra and then walk the stage of approximately 24 kms leaving our luggage at our accommodation. Hopefully, this plan will be easy on my healing ankle/leg.
May 17
Today we caught an early train back to Coimbra and walked Coimbra to Mealhada 25 KM (almost 16 mile), we left most of our weight in Mealhada so we had less weight. I also now have poles which also reduced strain on my ankle. All ended up OK. So far so good.
In Coimbra we had our favourite breakfast at the Pastelaria and Cafe 😋....Arco-Iris.
Mealhada is a city and municipality located in the Aveiro District of Portugal. It had a population of 20,428 in 2011. The city itself has a population of 4,522. Mealhada is known for its thermal and nature tourism, good food, and a wide range of hotels. Notably, the Buçaco Palace in the Luso parish, situated in the Serra do Buçaco mountains, is apparently a luxury hotel worth visiting (?).
May 15
Sight seeing in Coimbra, also giving time for Ingrid’s ancle to heal and more time working on stupid phone issues.
May 16
After 2 days resting and sight seeing, we left Coimbra today for Mealhada. We decided to take the day off to do administrative work on tech problems with my phone, which has not been charging for several days! (Thankfully, it is now fixed by buying a compatable wireless charger.) So we caught the train from Coimbra to the next stage, Mealhada. Tomorrow, we will head back on the train to Coimbra and then walk the stage of approximately 24 kms leaving our luggage at our accommodation. Hopefully, this plan will be easy on my healing ankle/leg.
May 17
Today we caught an early train back to Coimbra and walked Coimbra to Mealhada 25 KM (almost 16 mile), we left most of our weight in Mealhada so we had less weight. I also now have poles which also reduced strain on my ankle. All ended up OK. So far so good.
In Coimbra we had our favourite breakfast at the Pastelaria and Cafe 😋....Arco-Iris.
Mealhada is a city and municipality located in the Aveiro District of Portugal. It had a population of 20,428 in 2011. The city itself has a population of 4,522. Mealhada is known for its thermal and nature tourism, good food, and a wide range of hotels. Notably, the Buçaco Palace in the Luso parish, situated in the Serra do Buçaco mountains, is apparently a luxury hotel worth visiting (?).
May 18
Walked Mealhada to Agueda 25.4 Km
Águeda is a picturesque city in central Portugal, nestled in the district of Aveiro. Known for its vibrant Umbrella Sky Project, which brightens up the sky every summer, Águeda also boasts various other culture-rich traditions. The city had a population of approximately 47,729 inhabitants according to the 2011 Portuguese census. Visitors can explore the Umbrella Sky Project, attend street festivals, and savor mouth-watering local seafood dishes. Additionally, the city is just 20 kilometers (12 miles) from the city of Aveiro and approximately 240 kilometers (149 miles) from Lisbon.
The Umbrella Sky Project, is a delightful annual art installation that transforms the city’s streets into a vibrant and colorful spectacle. During the summer months, hundreds of colorful umbrellas are suspended above pedestrian walkways, creating a whimsical and enchanting atmosphere. Visitors can stroll beneath this captivating canopy, capturing Instagram-worthy photos and enjoying the interplay of light and shadow. The project has become a beloved tradition, drawing tourists and locals alike to Águeda to experience this unique blend of art and urban life.
May 19
Walked Agueda to Albergaria-a-Velha (17 Km) and then continuing on to Branca ( a further 6.1 Km for a total of 23.1 Km plus significant extra around towns and to accommodation which brought it up to about 28 Km)
Albergaria-a-Velha is a charming town and municipality in the Aveiro District of Portugal. Founded by Queen Teresa, mother of the first King of Portugal, D. Afonso Henriques, it boasts a rich history dating back to 1117. The population in 2011 was 25,252. The town’s name originates from the term “albergaria,” referring to a shelter for traveling poor. Albergaria-a-Velha is situated in the transition zone between coastal municipalities and mountain communities, and it is divided into 6 civil parishes12.
This town has special meaning for me because on this Camino and the last one I did with Terry in 2019 (800 Km / 500 m French Camino) we often stay in Albergues which typically provide Dormitory rooms, shared bathrooms, communal kitchens and common areas, so it is a great way to socialize and meet other “pilgrims”. Albergues will also often provide pilgrim meals which are very hearty, usually pretty good (particularly after a long day of walking), and, usually served with a liter of wine ! The other great thing about pilgrim meals is that whereas most locals eat very late, pilgrim meal are usually served quite early (say 6PM). This is great because we need to get to bed early because it is best to get up early (5AM to 6AM), start walking immediately, before breakfast, so you can finish early and avoid walking in the heat of the mid afternoon, and have a better chance of getting a bed in the next Albergues ! 😊
So to be visiting a the town whose name originates from the term “albergaria” is at least just a little special for me.
Leaving Albergaria-a-Velha we met Met and walked with Madog 19 years old from Wales. He is on his gap year.
After 28 kms walking today, we stopped at Casa Da Catalica a donation based Albergue in Branca. They supplied a wonderful dinner for 16 pilgrims and beds, only 2 or 4 to a room, and a great breakfast. Very kind and friendly hosts- Paulo from that town (Branca) and Marianne from France.
We already had met several of the other pilgrims along the way, and met several more.
Branca is a village and civil parish within the municipality of Albergaria-a-Velha. It lies in the Centro region and is part of the Aveiro district. In 2011, Branca had a population of 5,621 inhabitants. The village combines traditional Portuguese craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, much like the Branca Lisboa design brand, which unites high-quality crafted furniture with modern design principles.
May 20
Walked Branca through Sao Joao Da Madeira to Hotel Pedra Bela in Malaposta, 27.8 Km
São João da Madeira is a city and municipality in the northwestern region of the Portuguese Norte region, located 30 km from central Porto. São João da Madeira is known for its industrial heritage, particularly in the production of hats, footwear, and pencils. In 2021, the population increased to 22,144. Despite its limited historical sights, it consistently ranks as one of Portugal’s most liveable places.
Malaposta is a locality in the municipality of Santa Maria da Feira, Portugal. It covers an area of approximately 0.197 km² and has a population of 66 residents. Notably, Malaposta is known for its historical association with the mala-posta, a horse-drawn carriage used for transporting passengers and mail in the past.
May 21
Walked Hotel Pedra Bela in Malaposta to Porto, normally 32.1 Km but with getting a little lost and then getting to our accommodation in Porto, at least 35 Km
Porto, also known as Oporto, is the second largest city in Portugal after Lisbon. It lies along the Douro River, 3 km from the river’s mouth on the Atlantic Ocean and 280 km north of Lisbon. World-famous for its port wine, Porto is Portugal’s second largest city and the commercial and industrial center for the zone north of the Mondego River. The historic center of Porto was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1996. As of 2024, Porto’s population is estimated to be 1,329,3012, while its urban area encompasses approximately 2.4 million residents across 150 square miles.
Porto is a major milestone for us and we plan to stop here for at least a couple of days 😊
May 22 -24
3 days sightseeing and catching up with Camino friends in Porto.
May 25
Walked Porto to Vila do Conde about 34 Km
Vila do Conde is a picturesque municipality located at the mouth of the Ave River in the Norte Region of Portugal. Its population in 2011 was approximately 79,533 inhabitants. The urbanized area of Vila do Conde includes 36,137 residents. This charming town has historical significance, dating back to the Age of Discovery, and it is interlinked with Póvoa de Varzim to the north, forming a single urban agglomeration within the Porto Metropolitan Area.
May 26
Walked Vila do Conde to Marinhas, about 29 Km.
Marinha Grande is a municipality in the Leiria District, Portugal. Its population in 2021 was 39,032, covering an area of 187.25 km². The city itself has a population of 32,330. Marinha Grande is located right in the middle of the 700-year-old Leiria pine forest, which spans 100 square kilometers. It is also near excellent beaches such as Praia da Vieira, Nazaré, and São Pedro de Moel12.
May 27
Walked Marinhas to Viana do Castelo about 21 Km.
Viana do Castelo is a charming waterfront city in the Norte Region of Portugal. It exemplifies all the finest aspects of the Costa Verde region, boasting pristine beaches, dramatic natural scenery, and a rich history intertwined with Portuguese culture. The city has always been industrious, with a proud shipbuilding heritage and a large fishing fleet. In 2011, the population was approximately 88,725. The urbanized area, including the city, hosts around 36,148 inhabitants, while the extended densely populated region extends to surrounding municipalities like Caminha and Ponte de Lima, with a population exceeding 150,000.
May 28
Walked Viana do Castelo to Caminha, at least 26 Km.
Cathy has been getting over a cold for few days and I thought I had dodged it, but, tonight I am feeling fairly rotten with cold symptoms. On top of that I am having Ankle, Shin and Knee issues, so we might take a day here tomorrow to recover a little. Where we are now is the far north of Portugal, and Spain is just across the river. Here we have a choice: Either catch a ferry across the river and continue up the coastal route, or, walk up the river to Valenca and join the inland route crossing the river there, to the town of Tui. Our current plan is to take the second option and cut across to the inland route.
Caminha is a historic city in northern Portugal, situated near the mouth of the River Minho between Portugal and Spain in the Viana do Castelo district. With lush green hills, beautiful river beaches along the Coura and Âncora rivers, and incredible gastronomy, Caminha attracts visitors from all parts of Portugal. The population of Caminha was 16,684 as of 2011. It’s a town known for its numerous festivals and fairs, making it a hidden jewel in northern Portugal.
May 29
Walked Caminha to Vila Nova de Cerveira about 12Km. A shorter day today because I am trying to let my body recover a little.
Vila Nova de Cerveira is a municipality in the district of Viana do Castelo in Portugal. It was founded by King Dinis of Portugal in 1321. The town is mainly known for hosting the international biennial of art since 1978. The population in 2021 was 8,923. The municipal holiday is celebrated on October 1. The town is located on the left bank of the Minho River, which serves as the border with Spain. It is surrounded by Valença to the northeast, Paredes de Coura to the east, Ponte de Lima to the south, and Caminha to the south-southwest
May 30
Rest day today in beautiful Valenca, as I have an injured leg. I walked too fast a couple of days ago, and I now have shin splints on my left leg. It is quite painful even to walk without the weight of my backpack.
Valença, often referred to as Valença do Minho, is a charming municipality and town in Portugal, located in the Viana do Castelo District. As of In 2021, the municipality’s population was 13,634 residents, with 5,153 living within the city proper. Officially recognized as a city in 2009, Valença is renowned for its impressive walled town situated on the left bank of the Minho River, which forms the border with Spain. The town is celebrated for its historical significance dating back to Roman times and is a hub for traditional Portuguese cuisine and culture.
May 31
Walked from Valenca across the Miño River and into Spain at the town of Tui and then on to Porrino, 20.1 Km.
Tui, often referred to as Tuy, is a historical town situated in the province of Pontevedra, in the autonomous community of Galicia, Spain, not Portugal. It lies on the right bank of the Miño River, directly facing the Portuguese town of Valença. Tui is known for its rich history, dating back to prehistoric times, and its significant role during the Roman era. The town’s fortress-like cathedral is a prominent landmark. As of 2018, Tui had a population of approximately 16,902 residents. For some this is the starting point for the Portuguese Way of the Camino de Santiago, of couse we started it long ago in Lisbon,
O’Porriño, located in the Galicia region of Spain, is a charming town along the Portuguese Camino de Santiago. It serves as a stopping point for pilgrims traveling from Tui to Redondela. Dating back to medieval times, O’Porriño boasts a pedestrianized center with shops, restaurants, cafes, and bars catering to pilgrims. Notable buildings include the elaborate Municipal Offices of the Junta, resembling a castle. Religious sites like the Chapel of Angustias and nearby village of Mos add to its historical charm.
June 1
Walked from Porrino to Redondela (17.2 Km)
Redondela is a charming municipality in the province of Pontevedra, within the autonomous community of Galicia, Spain. Known as the “Village of the Viaducts” for its iconic 19th-century railway viaducts, Redondela is also a significant stop on the Portuguese Way pilgrimage route of the Camino de Santiago. The town boasts a rich cultural heritage and picturesque landscapes. As of 2021, it has a population of 29,192, reflecting a vibrant community set against the backdrop of historical architecture and natural beauty
June 2
Walked from Redondela to Ponevedra (19.6 Km) We had booked accommodation in the small village of Buchabade and the owner of the home drove to Ponevedra to pick us up – such a nice man, we did our best to communicate with him with our very limited Spanish !
Pontevedra is a picturesque city in the Galicia region of northwestern Spain, known for its rich history and cultural heritage. As the capital of the Rias Baixas region and the province of Pontevedra, it’s an economic center and a popular tourist destination. The city is characterized by its charming old town, iconic landmarks, and urban planning that prioritizes pedestrian spaces. With a population of 83,260 as of 2020, Pontevedra forms the heart of a metropolitan area with more than 200,000 inhabitants, including the surrounding municipalities1. The city’s commitment to sustainability and quality of life makes it a model for urban living in Spain
June 3, 2024
From Ponevedra we decided to take the Variante Espiritual to Padron. It is about the same amount of walking but is far more scenic, circuitous and historical and involves a boat trip as taken by St James “back in the day”.
So taking that route today we walked from Ponevedra To Combarro to Armenteira, 21.4 Km at that point, where we planned to stop, but there we no accommodation so we pushed on another 2.5Km to Barrantes, a total of 24Km (15 m). This path is also called the way of water and rock, and we can see why. We went along a large saltwater inlet (Ria de Ponevedra) before turning inland over a large Rocky, hot hot hot, hill with great views and then followed an absolutely gorgeous river through a forest passing more than 30 old mills from hundreds of years ago when waterwheels would grind the grain and saw the wood. This was definitely one of the best days of the trip so far. My shin splints are still a sore but I am managing. My phone also ran out of battery today so I did not capture Polar Steps path for the second part of the day (you can look at Cathy's if interested).
Combarro is a charming village located in the Poio municipality, over the northern side of the Pontevedra estuary in Galicia, Spain. Known for its traditional sailor-style architecture and picturesque granaries, Combarro is a cultural treasure that has been preserved perfectly. Despite being one of the most visited destinations in the Rías Baixas, it has managed to maintain its culture and lifestyle amidst the influx of tourists. The village is also home to a small fleet of boats dedicated to inshore fishing, with mussel cultivation being a significant economic activity. As of the latest available data, Combarro has a population of approximately 1,250 residents, reflecting a vibrant community that upholds its fishing traditions and historical heritage.
Armenteira is a serene hamlet nestled in the lush region of Meis, in the province of Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain. It is renowned for its tranquil Monastery of Santa María, founded in 1168, which stands as a testament to the region’s rich religious and architectural heritage. The monastery, with its Baroque-style square cloister, kitchen, and tower, is a focal point of cultural interest and has been meticulously restored by the Association of Friends of the Monastery of Armenteira. While specific population figures for Armenteira are not readily available, the village is part of the larger Meis municipality, which has a population of around 5,000 inhabitants. Armenteira’s idyllic setting and historical significance make it a captivating destination for visitors and a cherished locale for its residents.
June 4
Walked Barrantes to Vilanova de Arousa 22.1 Km
Tomorrow we plan to take the ferry service known as “La Translatio” which offers a unique route from Vilanova de Arousa to Padron. This service is particularly popular among pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago, as it follows the traditional route of Santiago Apostol’s journey. The boat trip is part of the Spiritual Variant of the Camino Portugues and is considered one of the highlights of the pilgrimage. The ferry service is operated by several companies, and the departure times are influenced by the tides, so not sure what time we will leave yet 😊
Vilanova de Arousa is a picturesque municipality located in the province of Pontevedra, within the autonomous community of Galicia, Spain. It’s known for its scenic coastal beauty and rich cultural heritage, including being the birthplace of the renowned writer Ramón María del Valle-Inclán. As of 2023, Vilanova de Arousa has a population of approximately 10,225 inhabitants. This charming locality offers a blend of natural landscapes and historical significance, making it a unique destination for visitors and residents alike.
For pictures see http://bit.ly/IngridClancy2024 .
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